Honda Aerodeck Engine

Published by Carl Wilson on

Thanks for choosing us to locate your engine for your Honda Aerodeck car engine. We are proud to offer you many great deals on our new, reconditioned, second hand or used Honda Aerodeck Engine selection. Check out our great deals today and get a free, no obligation quote on your required engine.

Aerodeck MA MB MC 5 Door Engine

Undeniably one of the most reliable but under estimated models ever to be produced by Honda between 1995 to 2001. It is commonly known as MA MB MC Aerodeck. It was built in 5 door and Aerodeck (Estate) Models in various trim levels and engine sizes.

Right from the thrifty 1.4L Engines (D14A2/A5/A7),1.5L Engines (D15Z8/Z3),1.6L Engines (D16Y2/Y3,D16W2/W3,D16B2 etc) and ever popular 1.8 L DOHC VTEC engine (B18C4; a detuned version of the B series engine that went into integral DC2) these came with 5 Door,55L fuel tank. The 1.8VTI engine model was the flagship model with the biggest petrol engine to be given to MA MB MC civics. Although it also came in diesel engines 2.0L 8V SOHC(20T2N , 20T2R), later diesel engines came with factory fitted intercoolers.

The Honda Aerodeck 1.8 VTI

As with all Honda models of the age, VTI denoted the inclusion of Honda’s VTEC technology. There was a rear VTI badge, and decals of “DOHC VTEC” on the rear doors, as well as front/rear bumper lips and side skirts (in VTI-S models). In 1996 we saw the introduction of the VTI model and then a limited edition VTI-S.

The VTI came with 2 different engines – the DOHC 1.6 VTI hatch and sedan (B16A2 engine) and the DOHC 1.8VTI five-door (B18C4). The 1.6 VTI cars were actually slightly faster in acceleration than the 1.8 due to the different gear ratios. The 1.6 was also a lighter engine, reducing the 0-60 mph acceleration time by about 0.3 seconds. Front/rear disc brakes were standard on all VTI/VTI-S versions. The five door versions (VTI) included a Torsen limited slip differential. The 5 door civic 95-00 came with different engines right from 1.4 litre, 1.5 litre, 1.6 litre, 1.8 litre petrol engines and 2 litre turbo diesel engine.

Tuning your Aerodeck

There are three main areas to concentrate on, the engine, the brakes and the suspension and then various other details. These three should be done together since they complement each other, not all of one and none of another!

Before modifying the engine it is worthwhile filling it with good quality synthetic oil and fitting new spark plugs. An engine oil additive may also be used. The first improvements are relatively simple. The air filter can be replaced for an aftermarket item which will help the engine breathe more freely, the type which completely replace the original air box are best, and the exhaust can be replaced for one which will restrict the exit of the gases less. The whole system should be replaced, not just the rear section.

For single cam engines: Improving the fuelling is the biggest change without opening the engine. A pair of downdraught or side draught carburettors (about 40 in size) will provide adequate air-fuel mixture and should also improve the throttle response. An improved camshaft will also reap big Honda Aerodeck’s benefits, especially when combined with the carburettors.

For twin cam carburettor engines: Again the approach of using a pair of twin carburettors and a camshaft is the best way to wring more power from these engines, after which work should centre on machining the cylinder head.

For fuel injected engines: The most effective modification (short of engine rebuilds!) is probably to replace the electronic control unit (or ‘chip’). A variety of these are available, but all should increase the power and improve the driveability. For Aerodeck’s the number of ‘off-the-shelf’ units is limited, but it is possible to buy a unit which can be programmed to any car and this will fulfil the role nicely.

Other things to do on all engines should include fitting a cold air intake, a large diameter pipe (minimum 5cm) to provide air from outside the engine bay to the air filter. The exhaust manifold can also be lagged with thermal cloth or tape to keep the exhaust gases hotter (and thus reduce back pressure) and also to keep the under bonnet (and hence intake and fuel) temperatures lower.

The high tension leads can also be replaced with performance ones.

After modifying the engine it may be worth fitting an oil cooler (depending on the level of modification carried out). If overheating is a problem due to the increased power output then a small hole can also be drilled through the plate in the thermostat.

If you are going to sell an Aerodeck always do the following

Some tips to do before selling: (they may seem obvious, but most people don’t do them and thus are in a weaker bargaining position)

Tidy inside the car thoroughly: hover the floor, empty all pockets, ashtrays (wash), glove compartment etc…, wipe the trim with a damp cloth, give the cockpit a good airing to get rid of any odours! Reset the trip meter to 00000 – it is a pleasant (subconscious) surprise.

If the car has been standing give it a good run – this will clear out the engine (reduce exhaust smoke), put a shine on the brake discs and loosen up any joints that may otherwise make some noises.

‘Back to black’ products are very effective at temporarily restoring bumpers and trim. This makes a big difference to any car. Do it a week before you expect people to view the car, otherwise it may be a bit too obvious!

Jet wash under the car, especially under the engine and in the wheel arches. The prospective buyer may be an enthusiast, and this makes it easier for them to see what they want to check.

Obviously wash the car and clean the windows!

If you are going to buy a car always check the following

The bodywork should not be a major issue, but check around just in case. The wheel arches, suspension and engine mounts, sills, door pillars, scuttle panel and the floor can be easily inspected. If a sunroof is fitted check around the edge, check that there are no mismatching panels, large areas of discolouration or signs of fresh paint.

Check for a damp carpet or the presence of mould – if the carpet is damp then the floor is almost certainly corroded – whatever the age of the car.

Check the main electrical functions – wipers, windows, etc… try putting the main beam and wipers on at the same time. Check the headlight reflectors for rust.

Check the brake pedal does not go to the floor if pressed hard for a long time and check the gear change for clean engagement.

The engine should be run up to temperature, check the exhaust for smoke, the condition of the breather (look for mayonnaise), the condition of the oil filler cap (again white deposits can indicate head gasket or other serious problems) and the colour of the coolant (preferably not brown!). If the car has an oil pressure gauge this should not drop below 1 bar at idle, and should be around 3 to 4 bar at speed. Listen to the noise of the engine, then depress the clutch and engage first gear. Whatever noise has disappeared was coming from the gearbox, what remains is from the engine. Also check the condition of the engine oil on the dipstick. The lighter brown the better, if it is thick black then leave quickly.

Check tyre wear, uneven patterns could imply a bent chassis.

Always take it for a test drive. Check that the car tracks in a straight line with no steering input. Find a large open area and complete several lock to lock turns (also in reverse), listening for any noises. Try the handbrake when moving – seized rear callipers will mean uneven braking or no braking.

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Carl Wilson

You won't believe it, I'm native Scotsman. Enthusiast. Car lovers. Almost finished rebuilding my Reliant Saber 🔥


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