Honda Beat Engine
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About Honda Beat engine
The Honda Beat is a rear mid-engined two-seat roadster kei car produced from in May 1991 to February 1996. The total number of cars produced was around 33,600 and most of the production (around two thirds) occurred in the first year. The Beat was one of many cars designed to take advantage of Japan’s tax-efficient K class. The Beat is a small mid-ship engine layout 2-seats convertible car. The Honda Beat might be not a serious performance car, but it does have a high responsive modified E07A engine.
There were two mainstream models of the Beat (the PP1–100 and the PP1–110) and a couple of limited edition versions. Only the second model had any real mechanical differences, in typical Honda fashion the Beat’s engine did not utilize a turbocharger or supercharger. The small 660cc SOHC 12-valve MTREC (Multi Throttle Responsive Engine Control system) engine makes 64 horsepower at 8100 rpm with a top speed of 135 km/h (84mph) and it was modified with individual throttle bodies for each of the three cylinders.
The Beat’s small size makes it perfect for manoeuvring around Tokyo’s narrow and crowded streets, and the small engine size makes it very fuel efficient. With everything on the car so small, the overall weight of the car is naturally low, giving the Beat a decent power-to-weight ratio. So, despite the small size and low power, the Beat is actually a pretty fun car to drive.
The Beat I3 SOHC Engine
A straight-three engine, also known as inline-three engine, or a triple, (abbreviated I3 or R3) is an reciprocating piston internal combustion engine with three cylinders arranged in a straight line or plane, side by side.
Most inline-three engines employ a crank angle of 120°, and are thus rotationally balanced; however, since the three cylinders are offset from each other, the firing of the end cylinders induces a rocking motion from end to end, since there is no opposing cylinder moving in the opposite direction as in a rotationally balanced straight-six engine. The use of a balance shaft in an anti-phase to that vibration produces a smoothly running engine.
An exception to the 120° crankshaft can be found in some of the inline-three engines made by motorcycle manufacturer Laverda. In these engines (sometimes referred to as 180° triples), the outer pistons rise and fall together like a 360° straight two engine. The inner cylinder is offset 180° from the outer cylinders. In these engines, cylinder number 1 fires 180°. Later, cylinder number 2 fires, and then 180° later cylinder number 3 fires. There is no power stroke on the final 180° of rotation.
Single overhead camshaft (SOHC) is a design in which one camshaft is placed within the cylinder head. In an inline engine this means there is one camshaft in the head, while in a V engine or a horizontally-opposed engine (boxer; flat engine) there are two camshafts: one per cylinder bank.
The SOHC design has less reciprocating mass than a comparable pushrod design. This allows for higher engine speeds, which in turn will increase power output for a given torque. The cam operates the valves directly or through a rocker arm, as opposed to overhead valve pushrod engines which have tappets, long pushrods, and rocker arms to transfer the movement of the lobes on the camshaft in the engine block to the valves in the cylinder head.
SOHC designs offer reduced complexity compared to pushrod designs when used for multi-valve heads in which each cylinder has more than two valves. An example of an SOHC design using shim and bucket valve adjustment was the engine installed in the Hillman Imp (4 cylinders, 8 valves); a small, early 1960s 2-door saloon car with a rear mounted alloy engine based on the Coventry Climax FWMA race engines. Exhaust and inlet manifolds were both on the same side of the engine block (thus not a Crossflow cylinder head design). This did, however, offer excellent access to the spark plugs.
The Beat’s Engine layout
- E07A 3 Cylinder 4-stroke SOHC 12 valve, water-cooled
- Layout – Transversely mounted Mid-engine
- Max power – 63hp (47kW) @ 8100rpm
- Max torque – 44 ft.lb (60Nm) torque @ 7000rpm
- Redline – 8500rpm
- Bore and Stroke – 66.0mm x 64.0mm
- Displacement – 656cc (0.6L)
- Compression Ratio – 10:1
- Lubrication System – Forced and wet sump
- Fuel Required – Unleaded gasoline
- Fuel Capacity – 24 litres
- Fuel Mileage – 17.2 km/litre, 27.0 km/litre (60km/hour)
- Engine oil capacity: 2.7L with filter
- Coolant system capacity: 4.7L
Cleaning your Beat Engine
Like anything else, engines work better when they’re clean. But cleaning an engine is not the same as cleaning the rest of your car. Here’s how to get your engine in tip-top shape.
1. Warm up the engine slightly. Do not get the engine to operating temperature, but allow it to run for a minute or so if it is heavily soiled.
2. Move the car to an area where the soap and material cleaned off will not cause damage or enter a storm drain. If you do not have access to a suitable location, take the vehicle to a car wash with an industrial wastewater treatment system. This is especially important if there is a lot of oil and sludge residue on the engine.
3. Remove the negative terminal cable on the battery then the positive.
4. Cover any exposed electrical components with a plastic bag or plastic wrap. This will prevent the electrical components of the car from being exposed to water which will be needed.
5. Cover the breather or air intake and carburettor on older engines with heavy aluminium foil or plastic. You may choose to tape or tie this in place, since water can cause serious problems if allowed into this area.
6. Brush any loose dirt or debris from the engine surfaces, either using a stiff bristle paint brush, or a plastic bristle cleaning brush.
7. Mix a solution of “grease cutting” dish detergent and water, using about 2 cups detergent to one gallon water.
8. Brush your solution on the engine, working it into the dirtiest areas, wetting them thoroughly.
9. Get a garden hose. Thoroughly rinse the engine.
10. Consult the vehicle’s service manual and look up material that will be needed to clean the engine block and other metal parts. For heavy grease, you may have to use a solvent like mineral spirits, but engine de-greaser, available at automotive supply stores would be better. A household de-greaser such as Simple Green may also be effective. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container.
11. Remove plastic after rinsing engine and cleaning away residue of whatever chemical that you used to clean the metal components.
12. Let the engine dry. Most engines with high energy ignitions will run with the plug wires (and distributer) wet, but may misfire or run “rough” until these components dry out completely.
13. Remove all the materials you used to cover electrical and fuel system components.
Do not wash sludge, oil, or grease into a storm drain or sewer system.
Using hot water will clean much more effectively. For very dirty engines, take the vehicle to a mechanic’s shop and have the engine steam cleaned.
Determine the proper procedure for disconnecting the battery. There are sensitive computer components in modern cars that need to be protected. Without following procedure, one may trigger service codes or damage the onboard computer.
Things You’ll Need:
- Eye protection, such as goggles
- Grease-cutting dish detergent
- Stiff plastic bristle brush
- Garden hose
- Plastic bags
- Battery terminal puller
Now that you’ve decided you need an Honda Beat engines, fill in your car details on ‘Quick Find’ this will walk you through our car part check list for the correct engine or any other car part that you require.
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